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FREE PLUMBING ARTICLE INDEX

 -Pedestal Sink Installation Made Easy

        -   Toilet Installation Made Easy in Five Steps

        -     Plumbing  Basics - Installing a Bathtub

     -    Installing a New Shower Unit

 

Pedestal Sink Installation Made Easy 

  by Kevin Campbell


Pedestal Sink Installation Made Easy

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED: Level Drill with assorted bits 9/16" wrench Tape measure Framing square Channel lock pliers

Some notes before you begin: 1) Observe all local plumbing and building codes. 2) Prior to installation, unpack the new lavatory and inspect it for damage. Return the lavatory to its protective carton until you are ready to install it. 3) These instructions are for installing the lavatory to wood frame construction. For other installations, supply suitable bracing and fastening devices of sufficient size and strength. 4) The walls and floor must be square, plumb, and level.

Pedestal Sink Installation Instructions

Step One: 1) Rough-in the supplies and drain piping Note: The supply stop handles cannot extend more than 3" from the finish wall when in the open position. 2) Install sufficient backing behind the finish wall to provide a secure material for the anchoring devices. 3) Apply two self-adhesive gaskets (provided) to each of the three ridges in the bottom recess of the lavatory.

Tips to Remember 1) Lavatory selection: When replacing a pedestal lavatory, keep in mind, beyond color and style, additional criteria in selecting the piece for your bathroom or powder room. 2) The unit may expose wall and floor imperfections, which may complicate the installation. 3) If you do not want anything touching the floor or an easier to clean system, try a shrouded lav, they are as sturdy as the pedestal lav and give a nice open look to the room.

Step Two: 1) Mark the centerline on the floor. 2) Position the pedestal on the floor centerline. 3) Carefully set the lavatory on the pedestal. 4) Move the pedestal as required to ensure proper fit in the desired location. 5) Level the lavatory. Add more self-adhesive gaskets as needed to level the lavatory. Note: The lavatory must be supported by the pedestal. 6) Check the lavatory placement. 7) Mark the center of each anchoring hole on the wall, and mark the floor through the hole in the pedestal bottom. 8) Carefully remove the lavatory from the pedestal. Then move the pedestal from the area.

Faucet selection: The faucet will require proper clearance between the stopper level and the wall.

Step Three: 1) Drill a " mounting hole at the mark on the floor, then drill two " hanger bolt holes at the marks on the wall. 2) Mount hanger bolts to the wall so approximately 1-1/4" of each bolt remains exposed. Note: other fastening devices of sufficient size and strength may also be used. 3) Install the faucet and drain to the lavatory according to the manufacturer's instructions. Note: Do not fully tighten slip-joint drain connections at this time.

Existing hardware: With pedestal sink lavatories, wall mounted, or shrouded lavatories, you will have a substantial amount of supply and drainage hardware exposed to sight. Make sure your P-trap, supply lines, and valves are acceptable for the appearance. This is a perfect time to change and upgrade.

Before installation: When you open the box(es), you will want to do a quick check to make sure all the parts are included. There will be a parts check list in your instruction booklet.

You will want to install the faucet and drain onto the lavatory top before you install the top. It is easier to work with at this point and the two pieces don't add too much weight.

Step Four: 1) Position the pedestal mounting hole over the hole in the floor. 2) Secure the pedestal to the floor with the wood screw and washer. Tighten the wood screw until it is snug. Caution! Risk of product damage: Do not overtighten. Overtightening the wood screw may cause damage to the product.

Step 5: 1) Set the lavatory on the pedestal so the hanger bolts extend through the lavatory holes. 2) Level the lavatory. 3) Install the cap nuts and washers, and tighten until snug. Caution! Risk of product damage: Do not overtighten the cap nuts. Overtightening may cause damage to the product. 4) Connect and tighten the trap. Connect the hot and cold water supplies to the faucet.

Installation tips: If available, the installation is much easier with two people. Some of these lavatories are very heavy and can be cumbersome to move around. The most important time for help is when you are putting the lavatory onto the mounting hardware and lining up the P-trap at the same time. It is great to have someone lifting and placing while the other is lining up the pipes.

Installing the legs into the wall is a relatively simple job. However, when screwing in from the threaded side, put a threaded rod connector over the threads to protect them (another option is to use multiple nuts). This will make a much easier time of tightening the nuts while holding up the lav top.

About the Author

Kevin Campbell is the owner of Employee Wholesale Direct. Employee Wholesale Direct is where you receive the full advantage of purchasing thousands of home remodeling products at true wholesale prices. Buy brand name discount faucets, discount sinks, discount toilets, tankless toilets, pedestal sinks, and much more. EWDIR can be found online at http://www.ewdir.com


Toilet Installation Made Easy in Five Steps 

  by Kevin Campbell


Besides matching colors and style with the rest of you bathroom or powder room, you will want to consider a few more points. Here are five steps to make your next toilet installation very easy.

(1) Roughing in specifications: This is the measurement from the wall to the center of the outlet. Typically they come in 10", 12" and 14" sizes. The standard is 12" but a measurement should be taken.

(2) Foot print of the toilet: If you are dealing with a remodel over an existing floor covering, you may want to reference a specification sheet for the area that the bottom of the toilet will cover. For new construction or a new flooring choice, it is also a good idea to have a reference so the flooring is close enough to the ring on the toilet flange.

(3) Toilet height: ADA toilets are not just being marketed to people who need them. The new term is "Comfort Height." Taller people, older people and all other sorts are moving toward a taller toilet that you don't have to go down as far to sit.

(4) Elongated/Round front: Elongated has a larger "target area" for the younger members of the family. Some drawbacks are that some people don't like the looks and if the bathroom is smaller or even average size, the bowl may protrude to the point of being in the way.

Before you begin: observe all local plumbing and building codes. Carefully inspect the new toilet for damage. If the existing toilet does not have a supply shut-off value below the tank, install one before installing the new toilet.

Caution: risk of personal injury or product damage. Handle with care. Vitreous china can break or chip if the bolts and nuts are over tightened or if the product is handled carelessly.

Installation Instructions

Step 1: Remove the old toilet Turn the water supply off. Flush the toilet, and sponge out any remaining water. Disconnect the water supply connection. Remove the old bolt caps, toilet, and T-bolts, and scrape off the old wax seal from the closet flange.

Insert new T-bolts. If installation of the new toilet is delayed, temporarily cover the closet flange hole with a rag.

Step 2: Install the new bowl Record model number in Homeowner's Guide. From the bottom of the bowl, firmly press a new wax seal around the bowl outlet. Remove the temporary rag (if used) from the closet flange.

Caution: risk of external leakage. Do not lift or rock the bowl after placement - if you break the watertight seal, you must install a new wax seal. Align and lower the bowl over the closet flange and T-bolts. Apply full body weight around the bowl rim to set the seal. Do not assemble metal washers and nuts on T-bolts at this time.

Please the bolt cap bases in the "up" position over each T-bolt. Secure the washer and nut to each T-bolt.

Caution: risk of product damage. When cutting off excess T-bolt length, protect the vitreous china surface from exposure to the saw blade.

If the T-bolts extend more than " (6mm) over the nuts, cut off the excess. Snap the bolt caps onto each bolt cap base.

Step 3: Install the tank With three tank bolts, pre-assembled through the gasket holes, position the tank on the bowl by centering the gasket on bowl inlet. Assemble the washers and nuts to the tank bolts. Tighten the three nuts so the tank is level. Be sure the nuts are tight enough to achieve a watertight seal.

Step 4: Connect the supply Connect the supply shut-off valve to the toilet supply shank. Open the supply shut-off valve slowly and check for leaks. Install the toilet seat. Test flush the toilet several times. Periodically check for leaks for several days following installation.

Step 5: Adjustments Adjust the tank water level to the marked water line by squeezing and sliding the C-clip on the float rod. To raise the water level, slide the C-clip up. To lower the water level, slide the C-clip down.

Installation Hints The installation of a toilet is a very simple job and you need very few products in addition to what is in the box(s); but here are some things that should be replaced while in the area.

Wax ring: Inexpensive and a good idea to replace, even if you are taking the toilet off and putting it back on to the same flange. Note: The horned rings are easier to line up and help prevent leaks.

Toilet bolts: Also inexpensive; however you do not need to replace these unless you had to cut the old ones off. The brass does become corroded and hard to manage. Note: Give the plastic models a try. Plumbers give them great reviews.

Supply line: While you are working in the area, supply lines can vary from toilet to toilet and can become old and cracked. Replace, and save a possible headache down the road. Note: The braided lines work very well. They are flexible and add a neat look to the room.

Take a dry run at the installation. If the bowl and tank are not connected yet, set the bowl in place. Make sure the footprint covers the exposed area of the floor and it does not wobble excessively. When installing a two-piece toilet, after you have set the bowl down, set the tank on top to make sure you have proper clearance behind the bowl, and on all sides.

Note: Write the tank and bowl number on the underside of the tank lid for future reference.

If you are unsure of your workmanship and you think you might have some leaks, shut the water off after filling the tank. If there is a leak, you will only have one tank of water on the floor instead of an endless supply. When installing a two-piece toilet, you may connect the tank to the bowl prior to setting the toilet. When it is in two pieces, it is lighter and easier to move around. However, connecting the tank to the bowl is much easier when the bowl is not bolted to the floor. Remember to tighten the tank bolts evenly.

Make sure the bolt cap anchors are on BEFORE you put the nuts on the toilet bolts. If the caps do not fit on the anchor, or if the bolts seem to long, cut them off.

Lastly, if you are unsure of your workmanship and you think you might have some leaks, shut the water off after filling the tank. If there is a leak, you will only have one tank of water on the floor instead of the endless supply.

About the Author

Kevin Campbell is the owner of Employee Wholesale Direct. Employee Wholesale Direct is where you receive the full advantage of purchasing thousands of home remodeling products at true wholesale prices. Buy brand name discount faucets, discount sinks, discount toilets, tankless toilets, and much more. EWDIR can be found


         

Plumbing Basics - Installing a Bathtub   by Ray Dobson


Installing a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, but it does require solid plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move speedily; if you have to open a wall to remove the old tub and position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the project is within a home handyman's skills, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.

This article will help you install a new bathtub in your bathroom if you have already bought a new tub and don't need to change the arrangement of your previous water supply pipes.

Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:

New Bathtub Hammer Pipe Wrenches Prybar Safety Glasses Level Pliers Adjustable Wrench Putty Knife Screwdriver Cold Chisel Tape Measure Pipe Caps

Preparing for the Installation

Firstly, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.

Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts and olives (sometimes supplied with the tub).

Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.

Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.

Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.

The bath should now be ready to be fitted in its final position.

Removing Old Taps If you need to replace old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.

Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.

Before moving on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.

Installing the Bathtub

Using the two wooden boards under its feet, place the bathtub in the required position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four small points.

The next goal is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.

To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the appropriate supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.

Switch on the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks and tighten them if necessary. Fill the bathtub and also check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.

Finally, fix the bath paneling as described in the manufacturer's instruction manual.

Tiling and sealing around the bathtub should wait until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will settle it into its final position.

Fitting New Taps If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic connector to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existent supply pipes.

If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require reducing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.

Next, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink. Secure the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the tap is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The former type should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.

Tiling Around the Bathtub In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below.

You can choose from a variety of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of sealing gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, you can fill it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to always fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the tub is in use. The sealant can crack fairly early if you do not take into account this movement before sealing.

Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are also easily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the tiles using water-resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout.

About the Author

Ray Dobson is the managing Director of WD Bathrooms based in Sheffield. For a wide range of bathroom supplies visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk/acatalog/Bathroom_Suites.html or alternatively for our full range of products and more useful articles visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk

 

Installing a New Shower Unit

by Ray Dobson

A successful shower installation requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you must decide on the type of shower that you wish to install. It is important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is also important to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature.

Bath/Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very cheap option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also require additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the different mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method Depending on the type of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.

Use the instruction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on. Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it - possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.

 

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Using pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.

# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.

About the Author

Ray Dobson is the managing Director of WD Bathrooms based in Sheffield. For a wide range of shower cubicles and enclosures see http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk/acatalog/Shower_Cubicles.html alternatively for a wide range of bathroom and shower fittings and further articles on Bathrooms visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk

         

 

 

        

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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